email a friend iconprinter friendly iconAlaska Yukon Trek
Page [ 2 ] of 2
« Prev | 

The question was whether Alaska could be broken down into Skurka-like numbers. Normally it isn't done that way, says Roman Dial, one of the state's most experienced wilderness explorers. Covering huge distances on established trails is one thing. But doing it when you have nothing but contour lines, game trails, and graveled river braids is an entirely different task.

"There are only a handful of people who've ever tried that," Dial says, "and Andy's goals were as ambitious as anyone's I've ever heard of."

Skurka's plan was to cover 24 to 25 miles daily. To get to know the terrain better, he joined a team in the 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic, a contest often described as the first in the adventure-race genre. His team won, and he went home feeling ready for 2010.

Dial was less sure. Skurka was "one of the fastest, if not the fastest, backcountry travelers I've ever met," he says. But Dial also sensed a rigidity in the young adventurer: "He didn't seem to know how to look around. He was focused only on moving forward, and that doesn't always serve you in Alaska." More important, could Skurka enjoy the experience—a capacity Dial says is essential to surviving months of hardship in the unforgiving northern backcountry?

Skurka's micro-measured world doesn't leave much room for reflecting on emotions. But over the long weeks of deep solitude, change came. Dial saw it when he joined Skurka for a segment that included a May blizzard. As the two crossed Wrangell-St. Elias National Park's Chitistone Pass, Skurka pushed forward with a grimness that bordered on bitter. "He didn't make it easy to want to spend time with him," Dial says. "And it didn't have to be that way."

But two days later they arrived in the town of McCarthy for what was meant to be a quick resupply. Instead, Skurka ran into an old friend and was drafted into an impromptu softball game. Not having swung a bat in years, he was suddenly anything but the superstar adventurer. He was just another guy, drinking beer and flirting with the local women.

"You could see him literally relax," Dial says. "It was as if he remembered what fun was."

A few months later, in the eastern Brooks Range, Skurka himself felt another shift. Bugs had swarmed him for two days. Then came a rainstorm with gusts that nearly ripped his shelter from the ground. His food supplies were low, and he felt emotionally thin, stressed by loneliness and the inhospitable locale. What began the transformation, through all that, was that he suddenly found himself not needing his maps. The route was evident, cut by the huge Porcupine caribou herd, a pathway so ancient and trampled it looked almost like a road.

Skurka began to wonder whether there was really any difference between him and all the other animals on the move. Accustomed to capturing his thoughts with a video camera, he recorded a stream-of-consciousness monologue about the caribou, the weather, and his sense of smallness, of being at the mercy of nature just as everything around him was and always would be. Tears flowed again.

"I haven't figured out why I'm crying," he says into the camera, "why the sight of these trails made me cry… I'm just like these guys. I'm just a creature on this Earth."

Even after the trip, he's still not sure. But he knows the tears weren't the same as the ones he'd shed near Slana. During the time I spent with Skurka, I never asked him what he was after, because he'd already shown me, in writing, in miles and ounces and hours. I don't know whether the moment with the caribou, so raw and moving, indicated that he'd found something deeper, but given how far he'd traveled and how difficult the journey had been, there was little doubt that Andrew Skurka had discovered something new.

"I was humbled," he says. And that small realization was as big as anything he's ever felt.

Michael Christopher Brown photographed conservationist Mike Fay in our October 2009 issue. Dan Koeppel is the author of Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World.
Page [ 2 ] of 2
« Prev | 
- ADVERTISEMENT -