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 Mountain of God


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By Joel K. Bourne, Jr. Photographs by Carsten Peter



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In a remote corner of Tanzania stands an astonishing mountain called Ol Doinyo Lengai, where lava fountains harden in midair then shatter like glass. | 


Read this compelling excerpt, or print the whole story.Some people like to climb big granite walls, others frozen waterfalls. Photographer Carsten Peter and his climbing partner Chris Heinlein like to climb erupting hornitos, the sharp, extremely steep hollow pinnacles that sometimes form around active vents. "You can't compare it to normal rock," says Peter of a hornito, or spatter cone. "It's very fragile and very unstable. The cone was rumbling and vibrating, but a rock plate was directing the lava in the other direction." His advice: "Don't try this at home."
Though Ol Doinyo Lengai's fresh natrocarbonatite lavas—which erupt at around 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit (500 degrees Celsius)—are roughly half the temperature of more common basalt lavas, the spattering drops of molten rock will still burn through a cotton jumpsuit like a cigarette through nylons. Yet the dramatic mountain in a remote, little-visited corner of Tanzania invites close inspection, especially from volcanologists. The late photographer and renowned volcano chaser Katia Krafft was captivated by what she called the "toy volcano" because its diminutive flows are cool enough to collect with a spoon.
"It's a perfect little laboratory volcano," agrees Barry Dawson of the University of Edinburgh, the first to study the strange lavas, in 1960, for the Tanzania Geological Survey. "The shape and style of the extrusions exactly mimic the flows of basaltic volcanos, except the latter are so much bigger."
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In More to Explore the National Geographic magazine team shares some of its best sources and other information. Special thanks to the Research Division.
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Bell, K., and J. Keller, eds. "Carbonatite Volcanism: Oldoinyo Lengai and the Petrogenesis of Natrocarbonatites" (a volume of the IAVCEI Proceedings in Volcanology). Springer-Verlag, 1995.
Carr, Rachel, and Solomon ole Saibull. Herd and Spear: The Maasai of East Africa. Collins and Harville Press, 1981.
Francis, Peter. Volcanoes: A Planetary Perspective. Clarendon Press, 1993.
Krafft, Maurice, and Jorg Keller. "Temperature Measurements in Carbonatite Lava Lakes and Flows from Oldoinyo Lengai, Tanzania," Science (July 14, 1989), 168-170.
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Pinna, Marco. "Etna Ignites," National Geographic (February 2002), 68-87.
Skelton, Renee. "Hot Stuff! The Cool Adventures of a Volcano Chaser," National Geographic World (June 2001), 12-17.
Schmidt, Jeremy. "Russia's Frozen Inferno," National Geographic (August 2001), 56-73.
Webster, Donovan. "Inside the Volcano," National Geographic (November 2000), 50-65.
Volcano! National Geographic TV, 1989.
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