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Photograph by Michael Melford
Solitude beckons down a birch-and-sedge-lined path. One of the smallest U.S. national parks is also among the most popular, with 2.2 million visitors a year. A 135-mile (217 kilometers) network of hiking trails and 44 miles (70 kilometers) of carriage roads—open only to pedestrians, horses, and bicycles—offer respite from traffic.